Sunday, November 3, 2024

Cold Creek Conservation area & Happy Valley

 It's almost deep Autumn. Sun is more previous than other months. Most tree leaves have fallen. At this time of the year, we hike not to view colors, but fallen leaves. 😄

After taking 16k hike at Hockley Valley yesterday, we are a little bit tired and decide to visit Cold Creek Conservation Area (https://maps.app.goo.gl/sBtfKkowVaeU66Ez9) today. I decided to carry my 35-pound training backpack. 


The most popular route is going around the area, following the yellow marks for about 9 kilometers. That's what we want to do today. 



The Bog Boardwalk is closed for being torn and some sections are totally collapsed. But we determine to give it a try, maybe as the result of watching the adventure TV show last night "Orlando Bloom: To the Edge". Following the pink ribbon on the tree, we carefully pass stale water, jump muddy ground, trek rotten logs and overcome other scraps scattered along the creek. We need to be very careful not to slip into the stinky pond. Finally, with the help of the hiking poles, we hiked the whole section. That is the highlight of the whole hiking



The second stop is happy valley (https://maps.app.goo.gl/NLkujMLL16ssxGD17). Since it's getting overcast, and we decide to cut it short by only visiting the viewpoint, instead of the whole trail. At the end of the 7th Rd., a local told us there is a short circle hike. Maybe next time...


Today is the end of the Summer time. We're starting to face the 4:30 dark time again.


 

Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Thanksgiving - Canoeing at Algonguin Privincial park

One lifer checked !

Lifer - a term used by birding community, meaning a new bird first observed by someone. I borrow it for experiencing something/someplace the very first time.

The lifer this time is what I haven't done before - sleeping in a car overnight. 


________________________________________________

Since coming back from White Mountains, we think it'd be a good idea to view Fall colors from the lake after viewing from the White Mountains. Naturally Algonquin park comes into my mind.

Subaru's back seat isn't long enough for us to lie all straight, so we need to figure out a way to extend the seating area. My wife suggests to use an ironing board. It's such a brilliant idea, foldable, height adjustable and easy to transport in the vehicle.

Feels like Algonquin park is at our doorstep but somehow we haven't explored it like this time before. For a thanksgiving long weekend, the campsites are usually fully booked months ago. The only chance is to hope someone to cancel it, and I happen to be the first one to book it. It's risky but I have no choice.

I started to check weather forecast everyday. It differed from one day to the next, making me feel uncertain about the trip. Eventually, the time pressured me to make a decision on Thursday night. Somebody did cancel Mew Lake #80 and we decided to book it, but cut the trip from 3 days to 2 days to avoid the probable rainy last day.

 Day 1: 

Like usual, we got up very early to avoid highway traffic during long weekend. It was almost 2.5-hour driving. After buying a lunch package at Tim Hortons in Hunstville, we headed straight to the Canoe Lake beach area. Wow, there were so many people standing on the beach taking photos, viewing scenery, and there are so many canoes in the lake like I've never seen before.

We unloaded the canoe from the car roof, and I went into the Permit Office to check a few things. Unexpectedly, we noticed many cottages on the lake. At this time of the year, very few motorboats are still running. But it's not hard to image how busy it gets in the summer.


We kept paddling into Potter Creek until blocked by a beaver dam. Are beavers and human the only two creatures that know to transform the environment to their benefits?

While Canoe lake shows some Fall colors, when we paddled into Bonita Lake, there was only pine trees. So we decided to finish today's paddling and to drive to the campsite.

 

 

Mew Lake site 80: close to the lake, very far from the comfort station, under pine tree, also close to a potable toilet ;-(

This is my lifer 🤣

Sleeping in a car isn't as bad as I thought although the night is as cold as a few degrees. We're well prepared with hand warmers and thick sleeping bags. Also the issue is with how to find a flat ground.

 Day 2:

Since it's the last day in the park, we think we should squeeze as many things as possible, and not minding getting home late.

After eating some breakfast at the campsite, we drove to the beach of "Lake of Two Rivers". The lake and the mounts nearby shows some brilliant colors under blue sky break, making it a perfect time to take photos.


dramatic cloud over the lake and the mount




Paddling through Madawaska River channel, the small Pog Lake was found surrounded by pine trees. We stopped at a small sandy beach near a boat launch, had some snacks. Giving up the plan to explore Madawaska River west side, we decided to paddle another lake - Canisbay Lake.

Stopped shortly at the store to buy some food, daunted by the crowd, we drove directly to Canisbay Lake beach.

 

snapshot in Canisbay canpground while waiting for the washroom
 

The tree color is so bright in all Canisbay campground.

The easy side of the lake shows the most brilliant colors, so we made decision to paddle along the west side.


There are around 10 backcountry campsites in the lake. We checked some campsites, made notes and took pictures. Without portage, it's an easy canoe camping site candidate. Most sites were empty. On the farthest north side, we decided to check the portage trail, along with some body stretch, the portage is rather long, connecting with Minnesing Trail. I've never seen any portage trail this long, maybe 3 km.

Passing many rocks and board walk, we walked until Canibay Creek and made a return.

While returning to the beach, we had this urge to view sunset. So we decided to go to Track and Tower Trail. Before that, we drove to Cache Lake not far to help me remember the last time we visited it. Unfortunately, the only thing I remember is the portage through the highway 60.

It was rather late, around 5:30pm. The busiest spot in the park was gradually emptying out. We easily found one parking spot, and wanted to push our luck to see if we could get to the viewpoint before sun went down the treeline. Brought headlamp, we started the hike. The terrain isn't easy, with rocks and tree roots.

When we get to the cascade bridge, around half way. By evaluating the time, we didn't think we could make it to the top before sunset. So we stayed at the cascade to take some good photos. Some brave young people passed by, with stylish coat and shoes, so determined to make it to the top. On the way back to the parking lot, it got darker and darker, we were glad to have brought the headlamp. 


Lake with two moons ;-)

     It was total dark at the parking lot around 7:30pm. On the way driving home. we had something to eat at Mcdonald's in Walmart, and got home around 11pm.

    It was a packed trip with many new things. It was the trip I made a decision to make notes about the lifer in my life.


Takeaways:

1. Ontario parks require reservation even for day use and annual pass holder. Reserve at https://reservations.ontarioparks.ca/ to avoid disappointment at the gate.

2. Preregister your vehicle to avoid visiting the park office. You can save a lot of time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday, July 19, 2024

Hiking the Laugavegur Trail in 4 Days

 冰岛,其实应该叫“冰与火之岛”。除了有很多冰川,整个岛还有许多火山群和熔岩区。高地又是冰岛的一颗明珠,这里的地貌大概是地球上最接近 火星的了。所以成为很多著名影视剧采景地,包括星际迷航 (Interstella),权力的游戏-冰与火之歌 (Game of Thrones) 等等。

2019年9月,我在 Landmannalaugar 和 Skogar 分别呆过几天,被那里独特的风景地貌震撼到了。看着出发和到达的背包客们,心中默默想着有一天希望我也能走一遍这条81公里的Laugavegur trail 步道。

这就是为什么今年我回来的原因。这条步道仅在每年的6月底至8月底开放。我们徒步是从7月6号到12号,气温还有点偏冷,白天通常不到15°,夜里不到10°。所以我们带上了保暖的露营装备。同行的还有 Paul, Tim 和 Rodney。我也把完整的步道和露营地图放在最后。

我们提前一天到达首都 Reykjavík,住在 HI Echo hostel -- 旁边还有camp sites 和 RV sites。主要的长途汽车 和 市内公交车 在这里都有站。里面住了很多来自世界各地的背包客。hostel 里有长期和短期存包服务,是个很方便的地方。我去附近的加油站买了气罐,重新整理了背包。(其实 hostel 里就有卖气罐)

第 1 天(7月6日):Skogar 到 Basar hut, 26 公里,1100米爬升,8-10 小时

头天把剩下的行李存在 hostel,今天早上6:30 坐 Trex 长途汽车2个小时到达 Skogar。今天预报无雨,太阳也出来了,我们稍事整理后,看着蓝天哼着歌,开始攀爬长长的阶梯,浑然忘记昨天还在焦虑这1100米的爬升。

Skogar 瀑布,我们的出发点

一路上都是瀑布,大大小小超过10几个,每个瀑布都品相不俗。虽然一直在缓慢爬升,倒也不觉得累。远处的雪山也若隐若现。周边的 day hikers 也很多。和 day hiker们打打招呼,拍拍照,前半段走的很轻松。


远处的雪山
 

 因为有可能会在山顶的 Baldvínskáli Hut (12.5 公里处) 过夜,我们要在下面2公里处把水背上去。于是我在河里打了2升水,背包好像重了不少,雾气开始升起,蓝天不见了,歌也哼不出来了。河流,山包都渐渐变得模糊。感觉一直在爬坡,终于到达了Baldvínskáli Hut,这个hut 很简陋,背风处只有一个帐篷,于是我们把帐篷也搭 起来,却又不知道该干什么,现在大概下午3点,附近也没有hiking trail,难道就吃饭睡了吗?这时候同行的Tim 也赶了上来,他和其他徒步者攀谈后,被告知这里已经是山顶了,剩下的都是下坡,应该很好走了,不如去 Thorsmork 扎营,那里可比这里强太多了。于是我们就驴下坡,又把帐篷收起来,本着 “小车不倒只管推” 的精神,打算今天一口气走到 Thorsmork (26公里处)。看着我把费力背上来的2升水倒掉,嘴里仿佛有点苦涩。这时候Paul 脚上各种痛点轮流发作,于是我和他交换靴子 — 我40码 换他的41码,毕竟接下来还有13公里要走。要说Tim 还是很强悍的,无论刮风下雨,一条短裤一双跑鞋,背包看起来也很大,如此走完整条trail,很难想象几周前他才做了膝盖手术。

说剩下的路好走,其实也不是。接下去的2公里依然在爬升,因为大雾,很多路标看不清楚,只能根据脚印和GPS 向前走。雪地,火山灰,火山石,冰原,一脚深一脚浅,浪费很多体力。说到GPS,手机电量就很重要了,这次我们全程airplane mode 以节省电量。我背了一个20000毫安的充电宝,基本能满足需要。大部分的 hut 附近都有 Internet connection (除了 Emtrur hut)。Paul 安装的离线地图 Gaia 因为有等高线和路线很好用。大雾天帮了我们不少忙。即使这样,我们依然走错了几次路。

只要出发,路在脚下,雾在脚下,山也在脚下



这个下坡需要拉着钢索,固定在地上的钢管好像松动了哎 😬

一步一蹬,咬牙硬撑

庆幸的是虽然大雾却一直没有下雨,只是啥也看不见。突然峰回路转,连走带跳下了一个很陡的冰原,风起时,雾散去,眼前一亮,群山蓝天又在眼前。

弥漫的大雾被风吹散,群山再现
 

风景好像越来越好,远处的大冰山,不时看到的瀑布小溪,峡谷河流,以及路边的野花,当然我的脚也越来越沉重。

Thorsmork 有2个露营营地。我们就近在Basar 露营,其实再走2公里在Langidalur 应该更好。但是实在走不动了。Basar 更像是个RV 露营地,设施也很齐全,洗澡做饭都有,还有个bar,可以买简单的食物和啤酒。工作人员挺好,帮我们给充电宝充电。每人$5 洗了个澡,吃完 mountain house 已经晚上10点多了,看着远处还有夕阳余晖的群山,发了会儿呆,叹了口气,今天的旅途结束了。很高兴带了眼罩,可以在人造黑暗中睡着了~~~

第 2 天(7月7日):在 Thorsmork 周边 徒步

今天呆在 Thorsmork,休息一天,也徒步一下周边比较好的几条trail。这里有长途汽车可以到达,所以会有一些 day hikers。

我们的宿营地就在下面河谷

因为常年大风,这里几乎没有树,只有贴地生长的灌木,但还是有各种小花努力绽放,生命如此顽强,令人心生感叹。




 
第 3 天(7月8日):Basar hut 到 Emstrur hut, 17 公里,600米爬升,6-8 小时

今天天气依然不错,气温不高,我决定穿上短裤。出发后不久,要趟过膝盖深的一条河。据说冰川河水很冷,为此我还把 kayaking 的 Neoprene socks 背来了。过河的要点是要把背包的扣子都解开,如果落水可以迅速脱掉背包,以免被沉重的背包拖入水底。话说中世纪威震欧洲的德国皇帝 巴巴罗萨,就是在第三次十字军东征途中,骑马路过一条小河沟时马失前蹄,因为穿了重甲来不及站起来,而淹死的 🤣。(二战时德国攻打苏联的战役代号就是 巴巴罗萨)

 

Folding the river

 

看看AI 为下面这张照片做的诗 怎么样?👇

冰岛风景壮丽天地宽,
红背包行者独自远,
山川云海尽收眼,
心随风飘,梦在岸。

 Emstrur hut 有很多乘坐 4x4 jeep 进来的 group hikers。目力所及,周边的 valley 里已经有很多帐篷,甚至搭到了山脊上。这里设施也不错,除了没有Internet,洗澡做饭一应俱全。吃完饭,我和 Paul 又去徒步了一条沿着冰川峡谷的trail。看谷底大河奔腾,真感受到了孔子说的 “逝者如斯夫,不舍昼夜”。

步道中为数不多的一座桥
 

Emstrur 的帐篷营地

第 4 天(7月9日):Emstrur hut 到 Alftavatn hut, 16 公里,270米爬升,6-8 小时

今天是最容易的一天,天气依然晴朗,背包也由于食物消耗轻了一些。今天的很大一部分是长长的平坦路段。路上需要趟水2条河。这个季节应该是枯水期,河水都不算太深,大约刚过膝盖。沿途路过小河有时候可以饶有趣味的看到 山地摩托车和4轮驱动汽车 勘探过河路线。在这里驾驶机动车,懂得勘探过河路线应该是项必备技能。

中间的导管是用来在行进中动态给车胎充气或者放气的,以应付冰岛多变的路况。

山地摩托车队过河

      司机在河里来回走了几趟,沿着找到的最佳线路过河。👆

沿途有另外一个 Hvanngil hut,也可以在这里露营。这个营地有低矮的一圈石墙,预示着这里常年风大。我们放下大包,轻装徒步了附近的一条 Hvanngil Ridge trail。登上顶的路没有之字形,很直很陡,风也很大,屡屡感觉要被吹翻。到了山顶,风还是使劲的吹,永不停息的感觉。在山顶可以看到远处的河谷被狂风吹起的大股 灰尘暴 (dust storm),向着远处的雪山席卷而去,让人心生敬畏。

Hvanngil hut 的宿营地,被低矮的防风墙围住。



 

Hvanngil 山顶看到的 dust storm


到了 Alftavatn 营地后 发现这里的风其实也挺大。这个营地附近有个蛮大的高山湖。吃完晚饭我还绕着湖走了半圈。


第 5 天(7月10日):Alftavatn hut 到 终点 Landmannalaugar hut, 24 公里,700米爬升,8-10 小时

今天的路注定不好走,一大早就开始下雨。赶在大雨之前我们收起帐篷,躲在营地小棚子下面吃了早点。就像第一天一样,随着越来越高的爬升,雾气渐渐浓起来。随之而来的看不清路牌,以及各种不好走的地形 - 火山灰,火山石,雪地,冰原。路过一条泥石河流的时候,因为河中的石头不稳,我一脚踏进河里,幸好高帮的靴子挡住了大部分的水,只有少量的水弄湿了部分袜子。

河中的石头可能是松动的,我就是一脚踏空,踩进河里了。

到终点的路上还要经过一个 Hrfantinnusker hut,在接近这一段最高点的地方,看着用高高的石头围起来的露营地,就知道这里常年风大。已经在风雨中徒步了将近5,6个小时,湿掉的袜子越来越冷,内衣也湿透了。乘着短暂休息的时间,我换了内衣和袜子。并且躲在屋檐下,冒雨快速做了一袋mountain house。这里要给 MSR Reactor 炉子点个赞, 烧水真的很给力,不到一分钟就能烧开1升水,15分钟就吃完了一顿热腾腾的午饭。

通过 Hrfantinnusker hut 以后,渐渐地以下坡为主了。山开始有了颜色,我知道 Landmannalaugar 快到了。说是快到了,其实还有5公里,需要经过一大片 岩浆地 (lava field),同行的地质学家 Tim 分析这片岩浆大概有2,000年左右的历史,大大少于我以为的上亿年 😊。

最后的 lava field,可以看到营地了

Landmannalaugar 是一个被五颜六色的土丘包围的山谷,中心是几座棕色的小建筑和许多帐篷。我们迅速选了一个地方,搭起了帐篷。有些露营者还用营地周围能找到的大石头来压住钉子,或者在帐篷的底部边缘堆放了石头,以防强风。这里的天然温泉算是高地这颗明珠上的一缕亮色。我们搭好帐篷后 直奔 温泉,泡进温泉的那一刻,仿佛一路上艰苦的雪地跋涉,浓雾,大雨,狂风 都不算什么了。这条步道的确没有让人失望。我想我体验到了来之前所有期待体验的。

这是我第一次在如此多不同的地形中背包徒步。它教会了我很多关于self sufficient 徒步的知识,以及我想要从背包旅行中得到什么。我以后应该不会再来了,但这次徒步体验到的异世界之别样风光 和 冰岛高地的五彩山景是很难从记忆中消逝的。

泡完温泉,感觉白天依然无穷无尽,其实已经晚上9点多了。我和Tim 一起去爬了营地旁边的一条trail - Grangil trail,距离只有4公里,爬升却有600多米。山顶风大灰尘也大,不过却可以看到营地周围360度群山。晚上11点我还在外面徒步,也算是创了记录。

如果脚下有阴影,就应该意识到,光也在不远处

 

第 6, 7 天(7月10, 11日): Landmannalaugar 附近有很多景色独特的步道,接下来的两天就呆在这里深度体验,每天去温泉多次泡泡。这里有很多乘坐bus 来的day hikers,也有不少自己开车来露营的。

为了庆祝这趟背包行的结束,我还去营地旁边的 “山地购物中心” — 一辆经过改装的校车 (mountain mall),花了$17 买了一听本地啤酒(在美国加拿大可以买10几听了),坐在热腾腾的温泉里,仿佛做着一个梦。

这个 天然温泉 处在一条冷水河 和一条热温泉的交汇处。水温深浅适中,适合聊天,打盹儿,或者发呆 😀

 今天还偶遇了55 公里 Laugavegur 超级马拉松比赛,从 Landmannalaugar 向南跑到Thorsmork,第一名的成绩是4: 33分钟(我们走了3天)。在各路好手的喧嚣和音乐中,仿佛有某种力量在空气中流淌 (May the force be with you) 😇

早上9点,正式鸣枪开跑。

Ljotipollur trail, 20公里来回,终点时一个火山坑里的湖,还有不远处河流纵横的 大型滩涂。

火山口的一个深湖。当你凝望深湖时, 深湖也在凝望着你。😎

似乎无穷无尽的滩涂

Skallahringur trail, 15.5公里环线,一路可以看到五彩的群山和更远处的冰川雪山。有些步道被未融化的冰原阻断,我们不得不战战兢兢的在小碎石的山上爬上爬下 寻找路标,感觉随时有滑下去的危险。

山脊上的步道,人看起来如此渺小 

 
徒步中的风景

白雪点缀下的山包,有看油画的错觉。


整个行程明天就结束了,长达8天的野外生活,靠背包里的40几磅东西就足够了。让我不由得想 我们在文明世界的生活是否欲念太多呢?!


同伴写的 “夏日冰岛诗与画


下面是整条步道和露营的地图,供今后记忆和参考:



Cold Creek Conservation area & Happy Valley

 It's almost deep Autumn. Sun is more previous than other months. Most tree leaves have fallen. At this time of the year, we hike not to...